Our Growing Practices
Yes, but are you Organic?
Before there was "organic certification", there were hippies in the
wilderness who refused to use synthetic chemical fertilizer or
pesticides in order to grow crops. No one cared much about them, and
they called what they were doing "organic" farming.
This term came from
Sir Albert Howard in England and JI Rodale in Pennsylvania who developed
the "organic method" in the early 20th Century as an alternative to the
emerging chemical industrial agriculture complex being born in the
West. (At the same time Rudolf Steiner was developing the "biodynamic
method" in Europe which is certainly "organic" and some feel, a whole
lot more - but that's a story for another day).
The term was confusing,
considering "organic" in scientific terms means "containing carbon" and
of course there's plenty of carbon on modern chemical industrial farms.
In any case, they kept plugging along with their "organic" farming like
Don Quixote until Meryl Streep got a bit flustered about the Alar on
apples in 1989 and all of a sudden, soccer moms were invented and they
wanted their kids to eat "organic" apples and carrots to keep them safe.
Now with money to be made (fear = willingness to pay higher prices),
suddenly many players came together to ask how we can prove it is
organic after all? The farmers had by then created their own criteria,
which were regional and contained few compliance mechanisms
(teeth!) to stop cheaters. |
So, in a perfect storm of progress, some
farmers, retailers, and consumers all came together and decided to go
straight for the topsy-wopsy and get the United States Department of
Agriculture (USDA) to define "organic" and appoint "certifiers" and make
the whole thing stand up in court. Thus Whole Foods and The National
Organic Program were born. It took 12 years, but in 2002 legislation
went into effect, saying that the word "organic" can no longer legally
be used by old hippies to denote their produce. Only "Certified Organic"
farms can legally use the word "organic." Unless they are referring to
To Be Or Not To Be
For those of us who were already in it (our farm started selling
produce in 1982), the question of whether to certify or just change your
vocabulary, depended on your market. If we were a big wholesale
operation, and sold all of our produce to Stop and Shop, they would
demand our product be "certified organic" or give us a lower
"conventional" price. If we went to a farmer's market the market master
might demand us to be certified in order to use the word
"organic." But when all of our produce is sold directly to
consumers in a CSA, the only people who will ask us to be certified are
For a long time, no one ever asked us about
it. We always thought we would certify when we needed to. As long
as no one asked, we would stop using the word organic on our box truck
and on our stickers and our website and just keep doing what we've been
doing for 25 years. There is a cost to certification (around $1500
per year for a farm our size) and there is a lot of paper work to prove
what we are doing is what we are doing, so to keep costs to a minimum we
figured we would just wait and see. We knew how we were farming and we
have tried to make the farm practices as visible as possible (that's
what the "How We Farm" column in our weekly newsletter is all
about) so that people could learn how we farm directly and make
their own decisions and to our quality and care. After all, CSA is about
having a direct relationship with your farm, right?
Statement Of Growing Practices
Anyway, the bottom line with all of this is how do we grow your food?
Are we organic if we're not certified? We can't legally say that we're
organic, so we'll start from the negative. We don't use any
synthetically produced chemicals to grow your food. We don't use
petroleum based fertilizers. We don't use antibiotics or artificial
hormones. We don't use any products that aren't certified organic to use
as pesticides. We are aware of the regulations and feel that we live up
to them and frequently go well beyond them. And further, here's
what we DO do: We use mechanical (not chemical) means to deal with weeds
and pests (hoeing, tractor mounted weeders, covering plants to keep off
the flea beetles, etc). We use as much biodynamic compost as possible
as a fertilizer (used according to certified organic standards). We buy
certified organic seeds whenever they are available and not
We keep animals on the farm to keep it diverse and recycle nutrients
on the farm. We have created a market where we can harvest, pack, and
distribute produce within 24 hours keeping the nutrition content high.
These are our agronomic bottom-lines and the ones we hope you judge us
on. We encourage you ask us as many questions about our growing
practices and visit the farm for a tour any time. We want you to know
your farm and be confident of our practices and intentions. We hope in
this way to build a lasting relationship of trust and mutual dependence.|
If you have any questions about all of this please send us an
email or give a call (413)253-7991.
Late Blight Addendum
In 2009 there was a severe outbreak of a disease called Late Blight (phytopthera infestans) in tomato and potato crops all along the Eastern seaboard. If you were a shareholder here in 2009 you likely remember that we lost the entirety of our tomato crop that year.
Since enduring that terrible experience we've become a lot more educated on planning for, scouting for, and in an ideal world, preventing Late Blight from hitting our tomatoes again. This year we learned early on that Late Blight was confirmed in a few places in the Mid-Atlantic and even as close as New York City. Hearing of the potential threat of it spreading further up the coast, we opted to prepare to spray a copper based fungicide called NuCop on the crop on a fairly regular interval as soon as we saw the first signs of the blight. The copper product is OMRI certified and we are allowed to use it under the standards of the National Organic Program. It is certainly something that we'd prefer not to use but given the losses we've endured in the past, we decided that we simply couldn't afford to not do everything in our power to prevent a similar loss again.
Late Blight thrives in cool, wet, and windy weather so with the hot, dry July, it seemed that it may not be a concern for us this year. We were checking our crop regularly and saw no signs, but then on Friday Aug 3, we were suprised to see the tell-tale signs. After dealing with Late Blight in 2009, it wasn't hard to identify. I noticed a concentrated area in the field where several plants in a row had these symptoms. I took some plants to the UMASS diagnostic lab where the disease was confirmed.
We sprung into action as soon as we could, pulling out all the plants that had signs of Late Blight. We dug a shallow grave and buried 1000 row feet worth of tomatoes. The plants looked so healthy with the exception of a few leaves per plant but we know from experience that it was the right move having watched our 2009 crop go from dark green and healthy to deader than dead in 2 weeks time.
Since we pulled the plants out, we have sprayed copper 3 times, and we are hoping and praying that we can save the remainder of the tomatoes. There are some ripe tomatoes in the field now so we have started to pick in earnest, meaning you'll find, hopefully the first of many field-grown tomatoes, in your share this week.
While the product we've used on the tomatoes NuCop (Copper Hydroxide) is relatively benign it is not something to be take lightly. There are 3 important things that you should take away from all of this. #1. The most important single thing that you should do is wash all of the tomatoes you get in the share before eating. That said you are certainly not at any risk from eating farm tomatoes. The U.S. government's Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) routinely reviews fungicides and their safety. Currently, in the U.S. there are no human toxicity concerns associated with tomatoes treated with copper fungicides. The main risk is actually to the applicator who is handling and mixing concentrated copper in its powder form #2. We have not been and will not spray the u-pick tomatoes (this of course means that we may lose the crop early). #3. You should know that while we'll do everything humanely possible to bring you as many tomatoes a we can this year, it is a definite possibility that we will lose the crop much earlier than in a "normal" year.
After countless hours spent on these tomatoes from seeding in the greenhouse, to prepping the land for planting, to planting, to cultivating, to staking, to tieing, and weeding we have a lot invested in this crop. To cut down, pull up, and bury months worth of work in an afternoon is no fun. Here's to hoping that we can coax these plants into a terrific tomato year despite the presence of Late Blight. We hope you will contact us with your thoughts and concerns and will certainly keep you posted as things develop and thank you in advance for your support through the good and bad.