Stir-fried lo mein with charred cabbage, shiitake and chives

Kosher salt

1 pound fresh lo mein noodles

1/4 cup vegetable, canola, or peanut oil, divided

4 cups shredded cabbage

4 ounces shiitake mushroom caps, thinly sliced

4 ounces Chinese chives or scallions, cut into 2-inch segments

1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic (about 3 medium cloves)

Ground white pepper

1 tablespoon roasted sesame oil

2 teaspoons light soy sauce

2 teaspoons dark soy sauce

1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook noodles, stirring regularly with tongs or long chopsticks, until al dente and separated, about 1 minute. Drain and transfer to a large bowl. Toss with 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a wok over high heat until smoking. Add cabbage and cook, stirring regularly, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Work in batches if necessary to get the leaves nicely charred. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside. Add 1 tablespoon oil to wok and return to heat until smoking. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring regularly, until lightly browned and tender-crisp, about 2 minutes. Add chives and cook, stirring, until lightly wilted, about 1 minute. Transfer to bowl with cabbage.

Wipe out wok. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil and heat over high heat until smoking. Add noodles and cook, tossing and stirring, until hot. Add cabbage, mushrooms, chives, and minced garlic. Cook, tossing, until garlic is fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Add sesame oil, light and dark soy sauces, and wine. Cook, tossing and stirring, until sauce coats noodles. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Serve immediately.